How to Replace a Bathroom Faucet: Step-by-Step Guide (2026)

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take to replace a bathroom faucet?

30–60 minutes for most bathroom faucets. The main time variable is how corroded the old mounting nuts are — badly corroded nuts can take another 20–30 minutes to loosen. New faucet installation itself is only about 20 minutes once the old one is out.

Do I need a plumber to replace a bathroom faucet?

No. Bathroom faucet replacement is a standard DIY project. You need to shut off the water supply valves under the sink (no soldering or pipe work required), disconnect two supply lines, unscrew the mounting hardware, and reverse the process with the new faucet. A basin wrench ($15–$25) makes the job significantly easier by reaching the nuts in tight spaces.

What tools do I need to replace a bathroom faucet?

Basin wrench (essential for the mounting nuts), adjustable pliers, bucket or towels for residual water, plumber's putty or the gasket that comes with the new faucet, and Teflon tape for the supply line threads. A flashlight helps working under the sink.

How do I know what size bathroom faucet to buy?

Measure the number of holes in your sink deck (1, 2, or 3 holes) and the spacing between outer holes (center-to-center). Standard US bathroom faucets use 4-inch hole spacing for 3-hole sinks. Single-hole faucets need only one mounting hole. Widespread faucets (separate handles and spout) typically use 8-inch or custom spacing. Check the manufacturer's template before buying.

Why is there no water after replacing the faucet?

Check that both supply valves under the sink are fully open (turned counterclockwise). Also check that the aerator on the spout isn't clogged with debris from the install — unscrew it and rinse. If you have low pressure on both hot and cold, the supply valve braided hoses may be kinked under the sink.

What is a basin wrench and do I really need one?

A basin wrench is a long-handled tool with a pivoting jaw designed to reach up behind the sink deck and turn the mounting nuts that are inaccessible with standard pliers. Without one, you're trying to turn nuts in a 4-inch gap behind the sink with no leverage. You can technically do the job without one (using a strap wrench or brute force), but a basin wrench turns a frustrating 45-minute fight into a 5-minute task. They cost $15–$25 and last a lifetime.

How do I disconnect the drain pop-up linkage?

Under the sink, look for the pivot rod — a horizontal metal rod that enters the drainpipe and connects via a clevis strap to the lift rod behind the faucet. Unscrew or unclip the pivot rod from the clevis strap. Then unscrew the pivot rod retaining nut from the drainpipe and pull it out. This releases the stopper so you can lift the entire drain assembly out from above.

Replacing a bathroom faucet takes 30–60 minutes and costs $50–$200 for the faucet (plus $0 in labor if you DIY it). Turn off the supply valves under the sink, disconnect the supply lines and drain linkage, unscrew the mounting nuts holding the old faucet, drop in the new faucet, reconnect everything, and turn the water back on.

Replacing a bathroom faucet is one of the cleanest plumbing upgrades you can do yourself — no soldering, no cutting pipes, no drywall work. The whole job fits under the sink. The catch is that “under the sink” means working in a cramped cabinet with your arms stretched over your head. A basin wrench turns that from miserable to manageable.

Here’s the complete process, start to finish.

Before you buy: measure your sink

Match the replacement faucet to your sink’s existing hole configuration before ordering.

Single-hole sinks: One mounting hole — the faucet and handles are combined in one unit (or the handles are separate but all mount through one hole with a deck plate).

3-hole, 4-inch center: The most common US bathroom configuration. Two outer holes on 4-inch centers for handles, center hole for the spout. Most standard bathroom faucets fit this pattern.

Widespread (8-inch or custom): The spout and two handles each mount separately with 6–16 inches between them. Measure outer hole to outer hole before ordering.

If you’re not sure, remove the old faucet handles and measure center-to-center between the two outer holes.

What you’ll need

• Replacement faucet (match hole configuration and spacing)
• Basin wrench — essential
• Adjustable pliers or channel-lock pliers
• Teflon tape (plumber’s tape)
• Plumber’s putty (only if your faucet requires it — many modern faucets include a gasket)
• Bucket or old towels
• Flashlight
• Braided supply lines if yours are old or don’t fit the new faucet

Step 1: Turn off the water and prep

1. Open the cabinet under the sink. Find the two supply valves (hot on the left, cold on the right). Turn both clockwise until they stop.
2. Turn on the faucet handles to release pressure and drain the remaining water in the lines.
3. Place a bucket or towels under the supply line connections — there will be residual water when you disconnect them.

Step 2: Disconnect the supply lines

The supply lines run from the shut-off valves up to the faucet tailpieces. They’re typically 3/8-inch compression fittings at the valve end and either 1/2-inch male threaded or push-fit at the faucet end.

1. Use adjustable pliers to unscrew the supply line nuts at both ends — at the shut-off valve and at the faucet tailpiece. Turn counterclockwise.
2. Pull the lines free and let any water drain into your bucket.

Tip: If the supply lines look corroded, braided, or are original to the house, replace them while you’re in there. 12-inch braided supply lines are $6–$12 and worth replacing every 10 years.

Step 3: Disconnect the drain pop-up linkage

Most bathroom faucets include a pop-up drain stopper that connects to the faucet’s lift rod via a pivot rod mechanism.

1. Under the sink, find the pivot rod — a small horizontal rod that enters the back of the drain tailpiece.
2. Unscrew the retaining nut on the drainpipe (where the pivot rod enters). Pull the pivot rod out of the drain.
3. The pivot rod hooks into a clevis strap — a flat strip with holes connecting to the lift rod. Unclip or unscrew the pivot rod from the clevis strap.
4. The drain stopper is now free — it will lift straight out from above.

You’re only doing this if the new faucet includes a new drain assembly (most do). If you’re keeping the existing drain, skip Steps 3 and the drain parts of Step 6.

Step 4: Remove the old faucet

This is where the basin wrench earns its keep.

1. Get under the sink with a flashlight and look up at the underside of the sink deck. You’ll see the faucet tailpieces (or tailpiece for single-hole) going through the sink hole(s), held in place by mounting nuts from below.
2. Use the basin wrench to grip each mounting nut and turn counterclockwise. The jaw pivots to grab in tight spaces. For stuck nuts, try spraying with penetrating oil and waiting 10 minutes.
3. Once the nuts are off, the faucet lifts straight up and out from above.
4. Clean off any old plumber’s putty, silicone, or mineral deposits from the sink deck around the holes with a plastic scraper. The new faucet needs a clean surface.

Step 5: Install the new faucet

Read the instructions that came with your new faucet — the assembly sequence varies by brand. General process:

Single-hole and 3-hole faucets with a deck plate:

1. If required, apply a thin rope of plumber’s putty under the deck plate edge, or use the rubber gasket included with the faucet (gasket is cleaner and preferred on cultured marble and most modern sinks). Don’t use putty on granite or stone — use silicone instead.
2. Feed the supply tubes and any mounting hardware down through the holes.
3. Get under the sink and thread on the mounting nut(s) by hand. Once hand-tight, use the basin wrench to snug them up — firm, not gorilla-tight. Overtightening cracks the sink deck.

Widespread faucets (separate spout + handles):

Each piece mounts independently. Install the spout first, then each handle, following the same putty/gasket and nut procedure for each.

Step 6: Install the drain assembly (if included)

New faucets usually include a matching drain assembly. The process:

1. Apply plumber’s putty under the flange lip (the decorative ring that sits on top of the sink around the drain hole), or use the gasket if provided.
2. Drop the drain body through the drain hole from above. From below, thread on the drain locknut and tighten with pliers — finger-tight plus 1/4 turn.
3. Reinsert the drain stopper through the drain hole.
4. Reinstall the pivot rod through the drainpipe, threading through the hole in the stopper stem. Hand-tighten the retaining nut.
5. Clip the pivot rod back into the clevis strap. Adjust which hole you use to control how far the stopper lifts — test before finalizing.
6. Hook the clevis strap to the lift rod using the provided clip.

Test: pull the lift rod up — the stopper should drop. Push the lift rod down — the stopper should lift.

Step 7: Connect the supply lines

1. Wrap the faucet tailpiece threads with 2 wraps of Teflon tape if they’re threaded (not needed for compression-fit connections).
2. Hand-thread the supply lines onto the faucet tailpieces, then snug with pliers — 1/4 turn past hand-tight. Don’t over-tighten braided lines; the plastic nuts crack.
3. Connect the other ends to the shut-off valves. Hand-thread and snug the same way.

Step 8: Turn on and check for leaks

1. Slowly turn the shut-off valves counterclockwise to open. Watch for drips at both supply line connections while the water pressure builds.
2. Turn on the faucet and run both hot and cold for 30 seconds.
3. Check underneath with a flashlight — any drips at the supply line connections mean a fitting needs another 1/8 turn.
4. Unscrew the aerator from the spout tip and rinse it — debris from the installation often collects there, causing low flow.
5. Test the drain pop-up by pulling and pushing the lift rod several times.

If it drips: The most common sources are the supply line connections (tighten a bit more) or the drain locknut (needs to be snugger). Dry the area, wait 2 minutes, and recheck to isolate the source.

Common problems

Can’t loosen the old mounting nuts: Spray with penetrating oil, wait 10–15 minutes, try again. If they’re truly seized, a nut splitter can break them without damaging the sink. This is rare but happens on faucets 20+ years old.

New faucet leaks at the base: The deck plate seal isn’t tight. Remove the faucet and add plumber’s putty or replace the gasket with one that fits flat against your sink surface.

Pop-up drain doesn’t work right: Readjust which hole you’re using on the clevis strap. Higher on the strap = more stopper lift. Lower = less travel but more sealing force.

Mineral buildup in the drain hole: If your old faucet has 10+ years of buildup around the hole, clean with CLR or white vinegar before installing the new faucet.

What a plumber charges

A plumber charges $150–$300 for bathroom faucet replacement labor (plus the cost of the faucet). The job takes them 30–45 minutes. DIY saves you the full labor cost — the only real risk is a corroded mounting nut that takes extra time to extract.

Related guides

• How to Fix a Leaky Faucet — repair instead of replace if the faucet is otherwise in good shape
• How to Replace a Kitchen Faucet — same process with a slightly larger form factor
• How to Unclog a Bathroom Sink — if the drain is slow after the faucet install
• How to Install a Bathroom Vanity — full vanity replacement if you’re going further
• Plumber Cost Guide — what plumbers charge when DIY isn’t the right call
• Bathroom Remodel Cost Breakdown — full project pricing if this is part of a larger renovation
• How to Fix a Loose Kitchen Faucet Handle — tighten a wobbly handle using the same techniques before doing a full replacement