How to Replace a Tub Spout (2026)
A tub spout that drips, won't divert to the shower, or has a broken diverter tab is a quick 15-minute replacement. This guide covers identifying your spout connection type (slip-on vs. threaded) and installing the correct replacement.
Replace a tub spout: (1) Identify the connection type: look under the spout for a small set screw hole (slip-on, also called CC or IPS slip), or a nipple extending from the wall that the spout threads onto (threaded). (2) Slip-on removal: use a hex key (Allen wrench) to loosen the set screw, then pull the spout straight off. (3) Threaded removal: insert a wooden dowel into the spout, hold, and turn counterclockwise. (4) Buy the same type replacement — threaded spout on a threaded nipple, slip-on where there's a copper pipe stub-out. The wrong type won't fit without replumbing.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the different types of tub spout connections?
Tub spout connection types: (1) Slip-on (set screw, also called IPS slip or front end connection): the most common in newer construction. The spout slides over a 1/2-inch copper or PEX stub-out that protrudes from the wall, and a small set screw on the underside of the spout tightens against the pipe to hold it in place. No threads on the pipe. Identify by looking under the spout for a set screw hole (usually 1/8-inch hex key or Phillips screw). (2) Threaded (Male IPS, female slip): the wall has a threaded nipple (a short threaded pipe, usually 1/2-inch iron pipe size) sticking out. The spout has female threads inside and screws directly onto this nipple. Identify by looking inside the spout opening for threads, or by noting the nipple is obviously threaded and no set screw exists on the underside. (3) Diverter vs. non-diverter: a diverter spout has a metal tab or knob that you pull up to divert water flow from the tub to the showerhead. A non-diverter spout is used when the faucet valve itself has a separate diverter, or when there is no showerhead. Make sure to replace like-for-like, or the shower function will not work. (4) When replacing: take the old spout to the hardware store and match both the connection type and the pipe-to-spout distance (front to back of the spout to where it hits the wall).
How do I remove a slip-on tub spout?
Slip-on tub spout removal: (1) Look under the spout body — about 1 inch from the wall — for a small hole. This is the set screw access. (2) The set screw is typically 1/8-inch hex (Allen wrench), or sometimes a Phillips screw. Insert the appropriate tool and turn counterclockwise to loosen. You do not need to remove the screw completely — just loosen it until it disengages from the pipe. (3) Pull the spout straight back off the pipe. It should slide off smoothly. If it feels stuck: wiggle slightly while pulling. Do not torque or pry upward — the stub-out pipe can be damaged if you lever against it. (4) Inspect the pipe: after removing the spout, look at the end of the copper or PEX stub-out. The pipe should be clean, round, and undamaged. If the end of the pipe is corroded, bent, or has a depression from an overtightened set screw: sand smooth with fine emery cloth before installing the new spout. (5) Stub-out length: the pipe must extend enough to seat inside the new spout. Most slip-on spouts require 1/2 to 1-1/2 inches of pipe exposure. If the pipe is too short: an extension pipe section can be added (copper slip coupling and short nipple, soldered or push-fit).
How do I remove and install a threaded tub spout?
Threaded tub spout removal and installation: (1) Removal: insert a wooden dowel, short piece of 2x4, or long screwdriver handle into the spout opening. Turn counterclockwise. The spout should unthread from the nipple. If it is very tight (corroded threads): spray penetrating oil at the wall-to-spout joint and wait 15 minutes before trying again. (2) Inspect the nipple: after removing the spout, inspect the threaded nipple. Clean any old pipe thread sealant (Teflon tape or pipe dope) from the nipple threads with a wire brush. (3) Apply thread sealant: wrap 2–3 layers of plumber's PTFE tape (Teflon tape) clockwise around the nipple threads. Or use pipe thread compound (pipe dope) applied to the nipple. This seals the threads and prevents leaks. (4) Install the new spout: thread the new spout clockwise by hand first to confirm it catches the threads without cross-threading. Then tighten by inserting the dowel into the spout and turning clockwise until snug and the spout is facing down (the spout outlet points straight down, not at an angle). (5) Do not overtighten: the spout should be firm but not forced. Overtightening damages the nipple or the spout's internal threads. If the spout is nearly but not quite in the correct down-position when tight: insert a rubber washer between the spout and the wall escutcheon to shift the position slightly.
Why is water dripping from my tub spout when the shower is running?
Tub spout dripping during shower: (1) This is normal behavior on most systems to a small degree — the diverter in the spout or the valve does not create a 100% watertight seal. A small drip or trickle from the tub spout while the shower is running is normal. (2) If the flow is significant: the diverter is worn or failed. On a diverter spout (the pull-up tab type): the rubber seal inside the diverter has worn and no longer seats fully. The fix is to replace the tub spout with a new diverter spout. (3) If the valve itself is a diverter (a three-function valve with a handle or button to switch between tub and shower): the diverter cartridge inside the valve has worn. Cartridge replacement requires removing the handle and trim, pulling the old cartridge, and pressing in a new one. (4) Dripping from the spout when the shower is NOT running: this is a separate issue — the main faucet cartridge or stem packing is leaking. Water is bypassing the closed faucet and dripping out the path of least resistance (the spout). This requires replacing or reseating the faucet cartridge. (5) Identify the source: hold a piece of paper under the spout while the shower is running. If water hits it: the diverter is leaking past. If water appears when the shower is off: the main valve is leaking.
Replace a tub spout: (1) Identify the connection type: look under the spout for a small set screw hole (slip-on, also called CC or IPS slip), or a nipple extending from the wall that the spout threads onto (threaded). (2) Slip-on removal: use a hex key (Allen wrench) to loosen the set screw, then pull the spout straight off.
Check for a set screw on the underside before turning anything — half the battle is knowing if yours is slip-on or threaded.
What you need
- 1/8-inch hex key (Allen wrench) OR wooden dowel (for threaded type)
- Replacement tub spout (match connection type and pipe length)
- Plumber’s tape (PTFE/Teflon tape) for threaded type
- Silicone caulk (to seal the wall-to-spout joint)
Step 1: Identify connection type
Look under the spout for a set screw hole (slip-on) or inspect the wall for a threaded nipple (threaded). Match the replacement type.
Step 2: Remove the old spout
Slip-on: loosen the set screw, pull straight back. Threaded: insert dowel, turn counterclockwise.
Step 3: Install the new spout
Slip-on: slide over the stub-out, tighten the set screw. Threaded: wrap nipple with PTFE tape, thread spout clockwise to snug.
Step 4: Caulk the wall joint
Apply a small bead of silicone caulk where the spout meets the tile or wall, leaving the bottom edge open to drain.
Related guides
- How to Fix a Dripping Bathtub Faucet — cartridge replacement when the tub faucet drips
- How to Replace a Shower Head — shower head replacement after adding a diverter
- How to Caulk a Bathtub — re-caulk the tub surround after plumbing work
- Identify the connection type
Look under the spout body for a small set screw hole — this is a slip-on spout. No set screw and a threaded nipple protruding from the wall means it is threaded. Buy a replacement that matches your connection type and note the pipe-to-wall distance.
- Remove the old spout
Slip-on: insert a 1/8-inch hex key into the set screw hole and turn counterclockwise to loosen, then pull the spout straight back off the pipe. Threaded: insert a wooden dowel into the spout opening and turn counterclockwise until the spout unthreads from the nipple.
- Install the new spout
Slip-on: slide the new spout over the stub-out until it seats against the wall, then tighten the set screw. Threaded: wrap 2–3 layers of PTFE tape clockwise around the nipple threads, then thread the new spout clockwise by hand until snug with the outlet pointing down.
- Caulk the wall joint
Apply a small bead of silicone caulk where the back of the spout meets the tile or wall. Leave the bottom edge open so any water behind the spout can drain out rather than pooling.
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