How to Replace a Roof Shingle: Fixing Missing or Damaged Asphalt Shingles (2026)
A missing or damaged asphalt shingle lets water under the roof deck immediately. This guide covers safely accessing the roof, removing the damaged shingle, and nailing in a replacement without disturbing the surrounding courses.
Replace a damaged shingle: (1) Lift the tabs of the overlapping shingles above the damaged one to expose the nails. (2) Remove the nails holding the damaged shingle using a flat bar. (3) Slide the old shingle out. (4) Slide the new shingle in, aligned with adjacent shingles. Nail at 1 inch above the tab slots with 1.75-inch roofing nails — 4 nails per shingle. (5) Apply a dab of roofing sealant under the tab corners of the overlapping shingles to re-seal them. In cold weather (below 50°F), the self-sealing strip will not activate — manual sealant is required.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I safely work on a roof to replace shingles?
Roof safety: (1) Only work on a dry roof — wet asphalt shingles are extremely slippery. Work in the morning before afternoon heat makes shingles soft. (2) Use roof jacks (also called toe boards) on steep pitches: these metal brackets nail to the roof deck and hold a 2x6 board to stand on. (3) Wear rubber-soled shoes — no leather soles, no steel-toed boots with hard soles. (4) Work low first — start from the repair area and work upward so your feet are below your body. Avoid climbing to a peak unless necessary. (5) For pitches over 7:12 (7 inches rise per 12 inches run): professional equipment is required for safe single-person work. (6) Never lean a ladder against a gutter — lean against the fascia or roof edge. Have a helper hold the ladder base. (7) Assess whether a small shingle repair is a DIY task or whether the location, pitch, or roof condition warrants a roofing contractor — a $200 repair bill is worthwhile versus a fall.
How do I remove a damaged asphalt shingle?
Damaged shingle removal: (1) Work on a warm day (above 60°F) when the shingles are slightly pliable. Cold shingles crack when flexed. If it is cold: use a heat gun or blow dryer on low heat to warm the shingles before bending. (2) Lift the tabs of the shingles in the row immediately above the damaged one. The self-sealing adhesive strip holds the tabs down — warm weather helps; carefully work under them with a flat bar. (3) Locate the 4 nails holding the damaged shingle. These are typically 1–1.5 inches above the top of the shingle tabs. Slide a flat pry bar under the shingle head and pop the nails up. (4) Also remove the 2 nails at the top of the damaged shingle that go through the shingle above (this is the normal overlap). Total nails to remove: 4 from the damaged shingle + 2 from the overlapping row above. (5) Slide the damaged shingle out toward you. It may be stuck down with the sealing strip — work it free gently without ripping the adjacent shingles.
How do I nail in a replacement shingle correctly?
Replacement shingle installation: (1) Select a matching replacement shingle. Bring the damaged shingle to the roofing supply house to match the color and product line, or use a leftover bundle from the original installation. Perfect color match on an older roof is often impossible — accept a close match. (2) Slide the new shingle into position, aligning with the shingles on either side. The top edge should align with the top edges of adjacent shingles in the same course. (3) Nail at the nail line: the nail line is approximately 1 inch above the tab notches (the indentations that divide the tabs). Use four 1.75-inch roofing nails (or as specified by the manufacturer). Drive them just below the shingle course above so the nail heads will be covered. (4) Do not nail through the overlapping shingle above — only nail through the new shingle, under the lifted tabs. (5) After nailing: apply a dab of roofing sealant (Henry 209 Fast Dry, Karnak 19) under each corner of the overlapping shingle tabs and press them down. This manually seals the repair since the self-sealing strip has been disturbed.
How do I find which shingle is leaking?
Locating the source shingle for a leak: (1) Water on the ceiling or in the attic tracks well to the left, right, or downhill of the actual entry point. Never assume the ceiling stain is directly below the leak. (2) With dry conditions: inspect the roof from the ground with binoculars — look for missing shingles (obvious), shingles with lifted or curled tabs, cracked shingles, and bald shingles where the granules have worn away exposing the fiberglass mat. (3) In the attic after a rain: trace the water to its highest point in the attic framing — that is the closest point to the entry. Measure from gable walls or ridge to triangulate the roof surface location. (4) Hose test: have a helper in the attic while you run a garden hose on the roof starting at the lowest suspected area and working uphill. The attic helper calls out when water appears — that tells you which area to stop at. (5) Flashing is the most common entry point: check chimney flashing, pipe penetrations (plumbing vents), and any penetration through the roof before suspecting individual shingles.
How many shingles should I buy for a repair?
Shingle quantity for repairs: (1) Shingles are sold by the bundle or by the square (100 square feet). For repairs, buy one bundle — a bundle covers approximately 33 square feet and contains about 20 shingles in a standard 3-tab or architectural profile. (2) Even if you only need 1–3 shingles, buy a full bundle: you will have spares for future repairs, and the unused bundle stores well in a cool dry area for years. (3) Architectural (dimensional/laminated) shingles — the most common residential shingle — have a variable surface profile. Check the manufacturer brand (GAF, CertainTeed, Owens Corning) and product line on the remaining shingles' packaging or by identifying the shingle pattern from a distance. (4) If the roof is more than 10–15 years old: matching is difficult because granule colors fade. A visual mismatch on the repaired section is expected; the repair is functional even if not perfectly matched. (5) If significant areas need repair (more than 10–15 shingles in one area): consider a partial or full re-roof quote — individual shingle repairs on a failing roof may cost more long-term than re-roofing.
Replace a damaged shingle: (1) Lift the tabs of the overlapping shingles above the damaged one to expose the nails. (2) Remove the nails holding the damaged shingle using a flat bar.
Work on a warm dry day — cold shingles crack when flexed, and wet shingles are dangerously slippery.
What you need
- Replacement shingles (matching brand and product line)
- Flat pry bar
- 1.75-inch roofing nails and hammer
- Roofing sealant (Henry 209, Karnak 19)
- Rubber-soled shoes
- Roof jacks (for steep pitches)
Step 1: Lift overlapping tabs and remove nails
On a warm day, lift the tabs of the shingles in the row above the damaged one. Use a flat bar to pop out the 4 nails in the damaged shingle and the 2 nails in the row above.
Step 2: Slide out old shingle
Work the damaged shingle free from the sealing strips and slide it out toward you.
Step 3: Slide in new shingle and nail
Align the new shingle with adjacent courses. Nail at the nail line (1 inch above tab notches) with four 1.75-inch roofing nails, driven under the lifted tabs.
Step 4: Seal the tabs
Apply a dab of roofing sealant under each corner of the tabs that were lifted. Press them back down firmly.
Related guides
- How to Patch a Roof — larger repair areas and emergency patching
- How to Fix Chimney Flashing — the most common roof leak source
- How to Fix a Leaking Skylight — skylight flashing repair
- Access the roof safely
Only work on a dry roof on a warm day (above 60°F) — wet shingles are extremely slippery, and cold shingles crack when flexed. Wear rubber-soled shoes. On pitches steeper than 4:12, install roof jacks (nail to the deck, rest a plank across) before climbing to the repair area. Lean the ladder against the fascia or roof edge, never against a gutter. Have a helper on the ground.
- Lift overlapping tabs and remove nails
Lift the tabs of the shingles in the row immediately above the damaged shingle — work a flat pry bar gently under each tab to separate the self-sealing adhesive. Locate and pry out the 4 nails holding the damaged shingle plus the 2 nails from the overlapping row above (6 nails total). Do not crack the shingles above.
- Slide out the old shingle
Work the damaged shingle free from any remaining adhesive contact and slide it out toward you. If it is stuck, use the flat bar to gently break the seal without tearing adjacent shingles.
- Slide in the new shingle and nail
Match the replacement shingle to the existing color and product line. Slide it into position with its top edge aligned with the adjacent shingles in the same course. Nail at the nail line — 1 inch above the tab notches — using four 1.75-inch roofing nails, driving them under the lifted tabs of the row above.
- Seal the tabs
Apply a dab of roofing sealant (Henry 209, Karnak 19) under each corner of the tabs that were lifted and press them firmly back down. In temperatures below 50°F, the self-sealing strip on shingles will not activate on its own — manual sealant is required at every disturbed tab.
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