How to Remove Wallpaper (Without Destroying Your Walls)

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I paint over wallpaper instead of removing it?

You can, but it's rarely a good idea. Paint traps moisture under the wallpaper, which can cause bubbling, mold, and eventual peeling of both the paint and wallpaper. If you absolutely must, prime first with an oil-based primer and seal all seams with caulk. Long-term, removal is almost always better.

What is the easiest way to remove wallpaper?

Modern strippable wallpaper comes off dry with just a pull on the corner. For older wallpaper, the easiest method is hot water mixed 1:1 with fabric softener, applied with a sponge or spray bottle, combined with scoring the paper first with a perforating tool. Steam works for stubborn adhesive.

Do I need to score wallpaper before removing it?

Yes, for vinyl-faced, painted, or waterproof wallpaper. Scoring creates small holes that let water or stripper penetrate to the adhesive underneath. Use a scoring tool with small teeth — not a utility knife, which damages the drywall below.

How do I remove wallpaper from drywall without damaging it?

Keep the drywall wet (but not soaking) during removal. Work slowly with a putty knife held at a low angle (15-20 degrees). Avoid steel scrapers or aggressive tools that gouge. When adhesive residue remains, use warm soapy water and a sponge — not sanding, which tears the drywall paper.

Will a steamer damage walls when removing wallpaper?

A steamer is safe when used properly. Hold the steam plate flat against the wall for 15-30 seconds per spot, then move on. Don't leave it in one spot too long (causes drywall to soften). Don't use steamers on plaster walls without testing first — prolonged heat can crack plaster.

Removing wallpaper is one of those projects everyone dreads — and with good reason. Done wrong, it tears up drywall and leaves you with a worse mess than the wallpaper itself. Done right, it’s a straightforward weekend project that pays off with a fresh, modern room.

This guide covers every major removal method, which to use when, and the wall prep that separates a good paint job from a bad one.

Step 1: Figure Out What Kind of Wallpaper You Have

Before you buy supplies, do a quick test in a corner. Use a putty knife to lift an edge and pull.

Result 1: The wallpaper peels off in a single layer, cleanly, dry. You have strippable wallpaper — the modern standard. Just pull it all down dry. Skip to Step 5 (cleaning adhesive residue).

Result 2: The top layer peels off but a paper backing stays on the wall. You have peelable wallpaper. The top layer comes off dry, but you still need to remove the backing with water and a scraper.

Result 3: The wallpaper won’t peel at all — it’s stuck firmly. You have traditional paste-applied wallpaper. You’ll need to score, soak, and scrape. This is the standard process for most older wallpaper.

Result 4: It’s vinyl, painted, or waterproof. You must score first — water can’t penetrate the waterproof surface. Vinyl is common in kitchens and bathrooms. Painted wallpaper is common in older homes where someone painted over rather than removed it.

Step 2: Prep the Room

Wallpaper removal is messy. Strip adhesive runs down walls, paper scraps stick to everything, and water gets everywhere.

Cover the floor:

• Canvas drop cloths along the wall edges (absorbs drips)
• Plastic sheeting under the canvas if you have flooring you want to protect

Remove or cover:

• Outlet covers, light switch plates, and register vents — unscrew and set aside
• Baseboards — tape off the tops
• Furniture — move out or cover with plastic sheeting

Turn off electricity to the room’s outlets at the breaker. You’ll be spraying water near outlets, and there’s no reason to risk it.

Open windows for ventilation, especially if using chemical strippers.

Step 3: Score the Wallpaper (If Needed)

Scoring creates tiny perforations that let water or stripper get to the adhesive behind the paper.

You need to score if:

• The paper doesn’t peel up at all
• It’s vinyl, washable, or has a plastic coating
• Someone painted over it

Tool: A wallpaper scoring tool ($8-15) — Paper Tiger is the common brand. It has small teeth on a rolling head that make holes without gouging drywall.

Technique:

1. Roll the tool over the wall in circular or overlapping patterns.
2. Light pressure — you want holes in the wallpaper, not the drywall.
3. Cover the entire surface. Missed spots won’t strip well.

Do not use a utility knife. It creates deep straight cuts that damage drywall underneath.

Step 4: Apply Water or Stripper

This is where most of the work happens. You have three main approaches:

Method A: Hot Water + Fabric Softener (Cheapest)

The DIY hack that actually works well.

• Mix: 1 part liquid fabric softener, 1 part hot water
• Apply with: sponge, garden sprayer, or spray bottle
• Cost: $5-10 for a whole house

The softener breaks down wallpaper paste. Hot water softens the paper.

1. Spray or sponge the solution onto the wall in 4x4 ft sections.
2. Let it soak for 15-20 minutes.
3. Re-apply if the wall dries out before you scrape.
4. Scrape with a 4-inch or 6-inch putty knife held at 15-20 degrees.

Method B: Commercial Wallpaper Stripper (Strongest)

Enzyme-based strippers like DIF (Zinsser) or Piranha dissolve wallpaper paste more aggressively than the DIY solution.

• Cost: $10-20 per quart
• Concentrate: mix with hot water per label instructions
• Also comes as a gel for vertical surfaces (won’t run down walls)

Same process as Method A — apply, wait, scrape. Better for stubborn old glue.

Method C: Steamer (Heavy-Duty)

For the toughest jobs — vintage wallpaper, multiple layers, plaster walls that should stay dry.

• Rent from hardware store: $25-40/day
• Buy a wallpaper steamer: $40-80

Technique:

1. Fill the steamer with water and let it heat up (5-10 minutes).
2. Hold the steam plate flat against the wall for 15-30 seconds per spot.
3. Move to the next spot; scrape the steamed area while it’s still hot.
4. Work top-down — steam rises and pre-softens the sections above.

Safety:

• Steam burns. Wear long sleeves and gloves.
• Don’t use on plaster without testing — too much heat cracks plaster.
• Keep the water tank full — running dry damages the steamer.

Step 5: Scrape and Remove

Regardless of which method you used, the scraping technique is the same.

1. Start at a seam or corner where paper has started to lift.
2. Slide the putty knife under the paper at a low angle (15-20 degrees).
3. Push forward, keeping the knife flat against the wall.
4. Pull off large pieces when possible — smaller pieces mean more work.
5. If paper tears, re-wet and try again — don’t force it.

Use the right scraper:

• 4” putty knife — best all-around choice, flexible enough to conform to walls
• 6” wide taping knife — faster for large wall areas
• Razor scraper — for vinyl or painted wallpaper only; dulls fast

Do not use:

• Steel wool (shreds paper, scratches drywall)
• Aggressive metal scrapers with hard edges
• Utility knives (gouge drywall)

Step 6: Clean Adhesive Residue

This is where most DIY jobs fail. Even after all the paper is off, a thin layer of glue remains on the wall. Paint over it and you’ll see texture, streaks, and eventual peeling.

Test first: Run your hand over the wall. If it feels sticky, tacky, or has visible glossy streaks, residue is still there.

Method 1: Warm soapy water

• Dish soap + warm water in a bucket
• Sponge the walls to dissolve remaining glue
• Rinse with clean water
• Let dry completely

Method 2: Enzyme cleaner

• Use the same wallpaper stripper at light dilution
• Sponge on, wait 5 minutes, wipe off
• Works faster than soapy water for heavy residue

Method 3: TSP (trisodium phosphate)

• For heavy, old adhesive
• Follow label directions — it’s a strong cleaner
• Wear gloves and eye protection

Wait 24-48 hours for walls to fully dry before proceeding.

Step 7: Repair the Walls

Wallpaper removal often reveals damage underneath that was hidden. Common issues:

Torn Drywall Paper

If the drywall’s paper face tore during removal, you’ll see fuzzy brown patches.

1. Sand lightly with 120-grit sandpaper.
2. Apply oil-based primer or Gardz primer (specifically for damaged drywall).
3. Skim coat with joint compound to level.
4. Sand smooth, then prime again.

Gouges and Holes

Fill with spackle or joint compound — see our drywall patch guide.

Rough Texture from Old Adhesive

Skim coat the entire wall with joint compound if residue can’t be fully removed. Two thin coats with sanding between each.

Old Paint Under Wallpaper

If the wall was painted (then wallpapered), you may find glossy paint that needs to be dulled before new paint sticks. Sand lightly or use a deglosser.

Step 8: Prime Before Painting

Never skip primer on walls that had wallpaper. You need it because:

• Seals any remaining adhesive (prevents yellowing and peel)
• Covers paper repair areas (patches show through paint otherwise)
• Gives new paint a consistent, absorbent surface

Best primers for post-wallpaper walls:

• Zinsser Gardz — seals damaged drywall and residual adhesive
• Oil-based primer — best blocker if glue residue remains
• Shellac-based primer (BIN) — for stains or odors

Apply one coat primer, let dry 24 hours, then paint. See our painting a room guide for technique tips.

Time and Cost Estimate

For a typical 12x12 ft room:

Phase	Time	Cost
Prep (cover floors, remove switches)	30 min	$10-25 (drop cloth if needed)
Score	20-30 min	$10-15 (scoring tool)
Water/stripper application + wait	30 min + 20 min soak	$10-20 (stripper)
Scraping	2-4 hours	—
Cleaning residue	1-2 hours	$5-10 (TSP or soap)
Wall repair	1-3 hours (if needed)	$10-30 (compound + primer)
Primer before paint	1 hour	$25-40 (1 gallon)
Total	6-10 hours	$70-140

Professional cost: $1-3 per square foot of wallpaper = $150-500 per room.

DIY saves a lot but takes a full day or weekend. Whether it’s worth it depends on your time.

Mistakes to Avoid

Painting over wallpaper. Traps moisture, causes peeling, always a short-term fix.

Using a utility knife to score. Gouges drywall. Use a proper scoring tool.

Not scoring vinyl or painted wallpaper. Water can’t penetrate; nothing happens.

Forcing dry removal of stubborn paper. Tears drywall. Re-wet and wait.

Skipping adhesive cleanup. New paint will show texture, peel, or yellow.

Painting over damp walls. Paint won’t adhere. Wait 24-48 hours after cleaning.

Skipping primer. Residual adhesive shows through paint over time.

When to Hire a Pro

Consider hiring out if:

• The wallpaper has been there 30+ years and is firmly adhered
• There are multiple layers of wallpaper stacked on top of each other
• The walls are plaster, not drywall (requires gentler technique)
• You’ve tried DIY and damaged the walls
• You need the room done fast and can’t commit a weekend

Cost: $150-500 per room depending on complexity.

Related Reading

• How to Paint Kitchen Cabinets — related prep/painting skills
• How to Patch a Drywall Hole — wall repair after wallpaper damage
• How Much Does It Cost to Paint a Room — next step after wallpaper removal
• How Much Does Drywall Repair Cost — major damage from removal