How to Fix a Fence Gate: Sagging, Latch Problems, and Hinge Repair (2026)

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I fix stripped hinge screw holes on a fence gate?

Stripped screw holes are the primary cause of sagging gates. The original short screws lose grip and the hinge rotates under the gate weight. Fixes: (1) Move up in screw length — replace 1.5-inch screws with 3-inch screws that penetrate deeper into the post or gate rail. This alone often tightens a sagging gate in 10 minutes. (2) Wood plug method — drill out the stripped hole, tap in a glue-coated wooden toothpick or dowel plug, let dry, then re-drive the original screw (the wood fibers grip the screw threads). (3) Replace with structural screws (lag screws or hex-head structural screws) for a permanent solution — these have much higher withdrawal strength than standard wood screws.

The gate won't stay latched or the latch won't reach. How do I fix that?

If the gate has sagged and the latch side has dropped: fix the sag first (anti-sag rod or hinge repair), then the latch will realign. If the gate is level but the latch doesn't reach: adjust the latch strike (the catch plate on the post) up or down to match the latch bolt position. Most gate latches have a strike that can be moved to a new screw hole. If the strike has to move more than 1/2 inch: fill the old holes, let dry, and drive new screws. If the latch throw is too short to reach the post at all: replace the latch with a longer-throw model or a hook-and-eye style that accommodates more gap.

How do I install an anti-sag gate kit?

An anti-sag kit consists of a cable or turnbuckle rod with corner brackets. The cable runs diagonally from the bottom corner of the hinge side to the top corner of the latch side — this is the direction that counters the sagging force. Install: mount the bottom bracket at the lower hinge-side corner (where the horizontal rail meets the vertical post stile). Mount the top bracket at the upper latch-side corner. Attach the cable or rod between the two brackets. Tighten the turnbuckle until the gate is square and level — watch the gate as you tighten, checking that the latch side is lifting. Don't over-tension; the goal is a level gate, not a pretensioned one.

The gate swings open or closed on its own. How do I fix that?

A gate that self-swings indicates the posts are out of plumb (leaning), which tilts the gate and causes gravity to swing it. Solutions: (1) Plumb the post — if the post is leaning: prop it plumb with a temporary brace, chip out the old concrete around the base, pour new concrete, and hold plumb for 24 hours. (2) Add a gate spring — a gate spring closer ($15–$25) mounts between the gate and post and holds the gate closed with a closing spring. (3) Add a gate stop — a simple piece of wood or metal attached to the post that catches the gate when open; a spring pulls it back. (4) Level the hinges — if the top hinge is slightly further from the post than the bottom, the gate will swing in that direction. Shim the top hinge out or recess the bottom hinge.

When should I replace hinges instead of tightening them?

Replace hinges when: the hinge leaf is visibly bent or cracked (often from heavy gates or collisions), the barrel joint is so worn that there's significant side-play in the gate, or the hinge is rusted through and won't hold screws. When replacing: choose a hinge rated for the gate weight. Standard residential wood fence hinges work for gates under 30 lbs. For heavy wood gates (60–100 lbs): use heavy-duty strap hinges or weld-on steel hinges rated for the load. Match the screw hole spacing to the existing holes in the gate and post when possible.

Sagging fence gate dragging the ground: (1) Check that all hinge screws are tight — stripped screws are the most common cause. Replace stripped screws with longer screws (3-inch instead of 1.5-inch) that reach the post or add a wood plug with glue and re-drive the original screw.

Fix the hinge screws first — most gate sag is caused by stripped screws, not failed hardware.

What you need

• Longer screws (3-inch wood screws to replace short 1.5-inch originals)
• Anti-sag gate kit / turnbuckle cable ($10–$15, if sag persists after screw fix)
• Screwdriver or drill
• Level
• Replacement gate latch ($8–$20, if latch is faulty)

---

Step 1: Tighten or replace hinge screws

With a screwdriver, test each hinge screw — do any turn without gripping? Stripped screws let hinges rotate and allow the gate to sag.

Drive longer 3-inch screws in the stripped holes. If the hole is too loose for even a longer screw: remove the screw, push a glue-coated toothpick into the hole, let dry, then re-drive.

---

Step 2: Check for level

Use a level on the top rail of the gate. If the latch side is low: measure how much — 1/4 inch of drop can often be corrected by tightening hinges; 1/2 inch or more typically needs the anti-sag kit.

---

Step 3: Install anti-sag kit (if needed)

Mount the lower bracket at the bottom corner of the hinge side (where the bottom rail meets the hinge-side stile). Mount the upper bracket at the top corner of the latch side.

Thread the cable or rod between brackets. Tighten the turnbuckle with a wrench — check the level as you tighten, stopping when the gate is level.

---

Step 4: Fix the latch

If the latch no longer aligns: loosen the strike plate screws and move the strike up or down to match the latch bolt position. Test by closing the gate — the latch should click fully into the strike.

---

Related guides

• How to Fix a Fence — fence board and rail replacement
• How to Fix a Broken Fence Post — post repair if the post itself is the problem
• How to Install a Deadbolt — security hardware for the fence gate leading to the yard