How to Fix a Clogged Downspout: Flushing, Snaking, and Redirecting
Clear a blocked gutter downspout using a garden hose, plumber's snake, or downspout extension — and prevent future clogs with a downspout strainer or gutter guard.
A downspout that won’t drain turns the entire gutter into a holding tank.
A downspout that won’t drain turns the entire gutter into a holding tank. Flush it first — most clogs clear in under 30 minutes.
What you need
- Gutter downspout cleaning wand pressure washer attachment
- Drain snake 25 foot plumber
- Downspout strainer leaf guard
- Downspout extension flexible
- Gutter elbow replacement aluminum
- Gutter sealant waterproof joints
Diagnose where the clog is
Clogs most often form at one of three locations:
- Top elbow (where the gutter outlet transitions to the vertical downspout run): leaves and shingle grit collect at this 90-degree bend
- Mid-run in the vertical section: debris compacts between joints that have separated slightly
- Bottom elbow (where the downspout turns from vertical to the discharge angle): mud and compacted leaf debris settles here
Start by removing the bottom elbow if accessible — just pop the crimped joint apart. Look for packed debris. Many clogs sit right at the bottom elbow and come out in one piece when the elbow is removed.
If the bottom elbow is clear, run a garden hose from the top of the downspout at the roofline with full pressure and observe where the water backs up.
Flush with a garden hose
From a ladder at the gutterline, feed a garden hose into the top of the downspout as far as it will reach and turn on full pressure. This forces water down through the clog and often pushes it out the bottom.
If the clog doesn’t clear: cap the bottom of the downspout temporarily with a rubber plug or have a helper hold a rag over the bottom, allow pressure to build for a few seconds, then release. The sudden pressure surge breaks apart compacted debris. Repeat two or three times.
Flush from below: insert the hose into the bottom and feed upward. Full pressure directed up into the clog can dislodge debris that top-flushing won’t reach.
Snake the downspout
If flushing doesn’t work, feed a 25-foot drain snake into the bottom of the downspout. Crank the snake clockwise as you push it in — the rotating tip breaks apart compacted leaf and debris packs. When you feel resistance, apply more rotational force before pushing farther.
Once the snake passes through the full length, pull it back slowly while continuing to crank. Debris will ride the snake out of the tube.
Flush with the garden hose again after snaking to confirm the downspout is clear and to wash out remaining debris.
A pressure washer with a downspout cleaning attachment is faster than a snake for most residential clogs — the rotating nozzle and high pressure clear debris in one pass without manual cranking.
Inspect and repair downspout sections
After clearing the clog, inspect the downspout for structural problems that will cause repeat blockages:
- Separated joints: gaps between sections where one tube slides into the next. Debris catches on the edge. Reseat the joint and secure with a sheet metal screw. Apply gutter sealant on the interior of the joint seam.
- Crimped or dented sections: aluminum downspouts dent from ladders and impacts. A section crimped more than 20 percent of its diameter will collect debris. Replace the damaged section — downspout sections are sold in 10-foot lengths and cut with tin snips.
- Undersized elbows: original builder-grade elbows are sometimes 2-inch diameter. Upgrading to 3-inch or 4-inch reduces future clogging significantly.
Prevent future clogs
Install a downspout strainer basket at the gutterline — it sits inside the top of the downspout opening and catches leaves before they enter. Clean it twice a year.
If trees overhang the roofline and the gutters fill with debris every season, gutter guards over the gutter channel keep the downspout inlet clear by keeping large debris out of the gutter entirely.
For downspouts draining into underground pipes: disconnect and redirect above ground if the underground system clogs repeatedly. A 6-foot flexible downspout extension carrying water away from the foundation costs $15 and eliminates the underground maintenance problem.
Related guides
- How to Clean Gutters
- How to Fix a Sagging Gutter
- How to Fix Leaking Gutters
- How to Install a Downspout
- How to Fix a Broken Gutter Downspout — repair a cracked or disconnected downspout section
- Diagnose where the clog is
Remove the bottom elbow (pop the crimped joint apart) and look for packed debris — many clogs sit right here. If the bottom elbow is clear, run a garden hose from the top of the downspout at full pressure and watch where water backs up. Clogs most often form at the top elbow, mid-run joints, or bottom elbow.
- Flush with a garden hose
Feed a garden hose into the top of the downspout and turn on full pressure. If the clog doesn't clear, plug the bottom temporarily with a rubber plug or rag, let pressure build for a few seconds, then release — the pressure surge breaks compacted debris. Also try flushing from below: insert the hose into the bottom and feed upward.
- Snake the downspout
Feed a 25-foot drain snake into the bottom of the downspout. Crank clockwise while pushing in to break apart compacted leaf and debris packs. When resistance decreases, pull the snake back slowly while continuing to crank — debris will ride the snake out. Flush with the garden hose again to confirm the downspout is clear.
- Inspect and repair sections
After clearing, inspect for structural problems that will cause repeat clogs: separated joints (reseat and seal with a sheet metal screw and gutter sealant), crimped or dented sections (replace the damaged 10-foot section), and undersized elbows (upgrade to 3-inch or 4-inch to reduce future clogging).
- Install a strainer to prevent future clogs
Install a downspout strainer basket at the gutterline — it fits inside the top of the downspout opening and catches leaves before they enter. Clean it twice a year. For chronic clogging from heavy tree coverage, install gutter guards over the gutter channel to keep large debris out of the system entirely.
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