How to Repair a Lamp: Replacing the Socket, Rewiring, and Fixing the Plug (2026)

Frequently Asked Questions

My lamp flickers or won't stay on. What is causing that?

Flickering or intermittent lamp failure has three common causes: (1) Bulb contact — the metal contact tab at the center of the socket base has been compressed flat over years of use. Unplug the lamp, remove the bulb, and use a non-metallic item (a popsicle stick, wooden skewer) to gently lift the tab up 1/8 inch. This is the first thing to try and often fixes the problem in 30 seconds. (2) Loose wiring at the socket — where the wires connect to the socket screws, the connection has worked loose from vibration. Unplug, open the socket, and retighten the screws. (3) Failing socket — the internal switching mechanism has worn. Replace the socket.

How do I replace a lamp socket?

Lamp socket replacement is a simple 10-minute process: (1) Unplug the lamp. (2) Remove the harp (the wire frame holding the shade) and the shade. (3) Press in on the outer brass shell of the socket where it says PRESS, and lift the shell and interior socket out of the socket cap. (4) Note how the wires are connected: one wire to the brass screw (hot), one to the silver screw (neutral). Disconnect both wires. (5) Take the old socket to a hardware store to match — socket types vary (medium base, keyless, turn-knob, 3-way). (6) Connect the new socket: hot wire (usually the wire with the ribbed insulation or the wire with printing on it) to the brass screw, neutral to the silver screw. (7) Snap the new socket into the cap.

How do I tell which wire is hot and which is neutral in a lamp cord?

Standard lamp cord (SPT-2 zip cord) has two conductors: the hot wire and the neutral wire. In the US, the two conductors are distinguished by: (1) Ribbing or printing on the insulation — the wire with ridges or text printed on it is neutral. The smooth wire is hot. (2) Color — if the insulation is color-coded, white is neutral and black is hot. On older lamps with identical-looking wires: look for the ridge under your thumbnail as you run it down the side of the cord. Connect the ribbed/neutral wire to the silver (wider) prong on the plug and the silver screw on the socket.

How do I replace a damaged lamp plug?

Replacing a lamp plug (the 2-prong end): (1) Cut off the old plug as close to the plug body as possible. (2) Strip 3/4 inch of the outer insulation. Strip 1/2 inch of insulation from each wire. (3) Quick-connect plug (SPT-1 and SPT-2 cord): buy a polarized quick-connect replacement plug (Leviton, Hubbell). Feed the cord through the plug body, push each wire into the contact slot marked Hot and Neutral, clamp shut. The contacts pierce the insulation — no stripping required for quick-connect versions. (4) Screw-terminal plug: separate the two wires, tie an Underwriter's knot inside the plug (prevents the cord from pulling out), connect to the screws, reassemble.

The lamp base is cracked or the switch is broken. Should I repair it or just replace the lamp?

Cost-benefit analysis: lamp parts (socket $4–$8, replacement cord $5–$10, plug $3–$5) are inexpensive and the repair is straightforward. For a quality or sentimental lamp, repair is worth it. A cracked lamp base can be repaired with two-part epoxy adhesive. Broken rotary or push-pull switches are integral to the socket — replace the entire socket assembly. If the internal metal tube (the pipe that runs through the lamp base) is cracked or bent: this requires threading a new all-thread rod through the lamp base, which is more involved but still DIY-feasible with a 1/8-inch IP lamp rod and lamp pipe nuts.

Lamp repair: (1) Lamp won’t turn on: check the bulb first, then check the socket — if the metal tab in the center of the socket base is flattened, use a non-metallic tool to lift it up slightly to restore contact. (2) Socket crackles or sparks: the socket is failing — replace it.

Lift the contact tab first — a flat tab is the cause of half of all lamp failures and takes 30 seconds to fix.

What you need

• Replacement lamp socket (medium base, matching switch style)
• Replacement lamp cord (if rewiring)
• Replacement plug (quick-connect style)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Wire strippers
• Needle-nose pliers

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Step 1: Unplug the lamp

Always unplug before touching any component. Do not work on a lamp while it is plugged in.

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Step 2: Try the contact tab fix first

Remove the shade and harp. Remove the bulb. Look into the socket — the center metal tab should be slightly raised. If it is flat: use a non-metallic tool (popsicle stick, wooden skewer) to gently lift the tab 1/8 inch. Reinstall the bulb and test.

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Step 3: Replace the socket (if needed)

Locate the word PRESS on the outer brass socket shell. Press firmly and lift the shell up and off. Lift the inner socket out. Disconnect the two wires from the screws. Note which wire connects to brass (hot) and which to silver (neutral). Connect the same wires to the replacement socket screws. Snap the socket and shell back into the cap.

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Step 4: Replace a damaged plug

Cut the cord above the damaged area. Strip the outer insulation, then strip each wire 1/2 inch. Feed through a quick-connect plug body. Push each wire into the contact slots (ribbed wire = neutral = wider prong). Clamp shut.

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Step 5: Rewire (if the cord is damaged along its length)

Run new lamp cord from the plug end, up through the lamp base tube, out the top, and connect to the socket using the same wire-to-screw assignments as the original.

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Related guides

• How to Replace an Electrical Outlet — wiring repairs beyond lamps
• How to Install a Ceiling Light Fixture — ceiling fixture wiring
• How to Fix a Light Fixture That Flickers — related lighting issues