How to Fix a Dryer Not Heating: Heating Element, Thermal Fuse, and Gas Valve (2026)
A dryer that runs but produces no heat has a failed heating element (electric), a blown thermal fuse, or a failed gas valve coil (gas). This guide covers testing and replacing each component, starting with the cheapest part first.
Dryer running but not heating: (1) Check the thermal fuse first — it's a $5–$10 part that blows when the dryer overheats (usually from a clogged vent). Test with a multimeter: no continuity means it's blown. Replace it AND clean the dryer vent — if you only replace the fuse without clearing the vent, it will blow again. (2) Electric dryer: the heating element may have burned out (also tests with a multimeter). (3) Gas dryer: the igniter or gas valve coils may have failed.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is a thermal fuse and where is it?
A thermal fuse is a one-time safety device that permanently opens the circuit when it detects excessive heat — usually from a clogged dryer vent that restricts airflow and causes the dryer to overheat. Once blown, it never resets — the dryer runs but won't heat. Location: varies by brand, but typically on the exhaust duct inside the dryer, near the heating element (electric) or burner (gas). On most dryers, accessing the thermal fuse requires removing the back panel or the front panel and drum. Always clean the vent before installing a new fuse.
How do I test the heating element on an electric dryer?
Disconnect the dryer from power. Remove the back panel to access the heating element (a coiled resistance wire). Disconnect the two wires to the element. Set a multimeter to resistance (ohms). Touch the probes to the two terminals of the element. A good element reads 8–12 ohms. An open circuit (infinite resistance, or 'OL' on the meter) means the element has burned out and needs replacement. Heating elements are $20–$50 and model-specific.
How do I diagnose a gas dryer that won't heat?
Gas dryers have an igniter and gas valve coils that control when gas flows to the burner. Diagnostic sequence: (1) Open the front panel (remove the kick plate and front panel on most models). Watch the burner during a heat cycle — does the igniter glow orange? If yes but no flame: the gas valve coils are not opening. If igniter doesn't glow: igniter failure. If igniter glows and gas flows but won't stay lit: the flame sensor (radiant sensor) is failed. Gas valve coil kits are $30–$50; igniters are $20–$40.
My dryer takes two cycles to dry clothes but does get hot. Is that the same problem?
No — a dryer that heats but dries slowly almost always has a restricted vent. Clean the dryer vent first (see how-to-clean-a-dryer-vent). Other causes of slow drying: overloading (too many clothes reduce airflow around garments), dryer not cycling properly (thermostat issue — running hot constantly instead of cycling on and off), or a worn drum seal that allows heated air to escape around the drum.
What tools do I need to work on a dryer?
Most dryer repairs require: a multimeter ($15–$30) for testing continuity and resistance, a Torx screwdriver set (many dryers use Torx screws), standard flathead and Phillips screwdrivers, and channel-lock pliers. For part lookup: take the model number from the dryer's door jamb sticker and search '[brand] [model] [part name]' at an appliance parts retailer (Repair Clinic, AppliancePartsPros, Amazon). Most dryer parts are stocked and ship next-day.
Start with the cheapest, most common part (thermal fuse) and work toward more expensive components.
What you need
- Multimeter
- Screwdrivers (Phillips, Torx)
- Thermal fuse ($5–$15, model-specific)
- Heating element (electric dryers, $20–$50)
- Gas valve coil kit (gas dryers, $30–$50)
Step 1: Check the vent (always first)
Disconnect the dryer, pull it from the wall, and disconnect the vent duct. Run the dryer with the duct disconnected — if it heats now, the vent is clogged. Clean the vent completely before proceeding with any parts replacement. See: How to Clean a Dryer Vent.
Step 2: Test the thermal fuse
Access the thermal fuse (remove the back panel). Disconnect its wires. Set multimeter to continuity. Touch probes to both fuse terminals:
- Continuity (beep): fuse is good, move to next component
- No continuity: fuse is blown — replace it
Thermal fuses are not resettable. A blown fuse = replace it and fix the vent.
Step 3: Electric dryer — test the heating element
Access the heating element (back panel or accessed from the front after removing drum). Disconnect wires. Test resistance: 8–12 ohms = good. Open circuit (OL) = failed — replace.
Step 4: Gas dryer — test igniter and valve coils
Restore access to the burner assembly (front panel, typically). Run a heat cycle with the door held closed (tape the door switch). Watch:
- Igniter glows orange = igniter is good
- Igniter glows but no flame after 30+ seconds = valve coils failed
- Igniter doesn’t glow = igniter failed
Replace the failed component.
Related guides
- How to Clean a Dryer Vent — clogged vent is the root cause of most thermal fuse failures
- How to Fix a Washing Machine Not Spinning — paired appliance repair
- Annual Home Maintenance Schedule — vent cleaning schedule
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